Very long one.. are u ready?
Overlooking the bay of Naples, i fall so hard for this island that i fear never being able to go back there again.
It is the story of San Michele that brings me here... if you've read this book, you'd understand the longing for its beauty, the heartache of Axel Munthe who spent years rebuilding a small cottage into the house of his dreams.
Approaching Marina Grande, the start of a beautiful sejour. After a 30mins walk, 15mins subway ride, 2-hour train ride, 30mins bus ride and 1-hour ferry, i finally step foot on Capri. Long journey? I could not feel the fatigue amidst the joy.
The owner of the B&B picks me up from the port and we drive to Anacapri, the other side of the island, a quieter village on the slopes of Monte Solaro. Along the way, i rest my head on the window and i cannot believe that i'm seeing all that Axel Munthe saw more than half a century ago.
Il Faraglioni in real life!
I make my way up Monte Solaro by the chairlift. Good idea to take off my flipflops.
At 589 metres above sea level, boats look like fishes but the turquoise waters never change.
Making my own postcard.
I tear my eyes away from the landscape because i'm going to miss the closing time for Villa San Michele. I reach there just as they close, but the kind man says i can stay till he finishes his paper. So happy because all the tour groups are gone for the day and i have the villa to myself!!!
"My house must be open to the sun, to the wind, and the voice of the sea, just like a Greek temple, and light, light, light everywhere!"
Axel Munthe lived here from 1896 to 1910.
The sphinx. standing at 327 m above the sea and looking over the Gulf of Naples, holds secrets that Munthe never discovered, and secrets of Munthe we would never know. How did it get there? It came to him in a dream.
Taking a walk along the narrow small streets of the village, i come across many shoemakers of the famed Capri sandals.
And facets of island life... the people there are amazing. I walk for hours and hours and still i don't get tired.
Being horrible at directions, I would get on the first bus i see and ask if i can go to a particular place. The bus driver always tells me i'm on the wrong bus but it's ok, he will drop me somewhere near. Along the way, i'm bombarded with questions of nationality, language, race, etc. As i disembark, they always refuse my offer to pay with a smile and a pat on the hand. And so i make my way around the island without a map, but by the kindness of the people.
The next day comes and i'm still not used to the dazzling blue that greets me on every corner. This morning, i will go to the Grotta Azzura, the blue grotto.
Boats go in from 9am to 5pm everyday and swimming is forbidden. But it is too tempting. The B&B owner tells me it's possible and people try to go in before 9 and after 5. I reach there at 8am, heart thumping. There are 3 Swedish tourists there too. We look at each other guiltily before bursting into laughter. Yes i'm scared silly.
The cave opening is very near to the stairs but don't attempt this unless you're a strong swimmer. The current is pretty strong but there's a metal chain at the side you can hold on to. This is the chain that the boatmen use to steer their boat into the cave.
When the waves rush into the small opening, you will be submerged for a few seconds. Lesson learnt from the first guy: go in quick when the waves recede!
Once inside, you're in a surreal blue universe with little small black fishes around u. It is simply amazing fantastic unbelievable.
I dry myself off and wait for the first boat cos i wanna take pictures.
The boatman knows!!!! He winks at me and asks how's the water?
The grotto is 60m long, 25m wide and 50m deep. The opening is so small and narrow that only small boats can go in and every one has to lie down on the bottom of the boat.
The intense blue of the water comes from the reflection of sunlight which comes in from ANOTHER opening that is completely submerged underwater. Can you believe it?
The boatman sings for us and all too soon, it's over. Just as everyone is disembarking, he asks me if i want to go another time for free. Of course! i play with the water and enjoy his singing. The acoustics within the grotto make him a Pavarotti.
After that, i hitch a ride back to the main marina on a bigger boat. In return for telling him my life story and a big smile, the ride which costs 11 euros is free. Would I offer him a gelato on this hot day? he asks. Of course! But only if i see him again after my walk to Arco Naturale!
The hustle and bustle of Capri.
Stunning cliff views dot the hour long walk.
And at last, the famous natural arch, the remains of a grotto eroded by the forces of nature.
Lunch.
The best caprese salad i've ever had... i could never find tomatoes as red and sweet as those in Italy. Again the owner and waiter are determined to hear the story of my life, and in return i'm presented with a bottle of olive oil. Mamma mia.
Making another postcard.. with a certain sadness.
The next time i will find my own private beach cos these rocks hurt my butt!
Saying goodbye is hard.
The B&B is really basic (read: shared toilet with trickling water and no soap or shampoo) but somehow u feel so at home cos the couple is unbearably sweet and warm. There are luxurious hotels aplenty on Capri but would i stay here again, knowing that it is 15mins away from the last bus-stop and that i would probably never get a clean enough shower? In a heartbeat.
There's a great view over the bay and Anacapri, and its peaceful and serene. Best of all, you meet real people, not a hotel concierge. She tells me to call her whenever i come to Capri again... even if she's full, she will make sure i have a roof over my head.
This trip to Capri revitalized my mind, body and spirit so much that I'm glad i chose to do it alone. I could truly open my heart to new experiences and people, throw all caution to the wind, forgetting myself and finding joy even in the simplest of things.
